Eggplants roasted in satay sauce


I don’t look for dependability or empathy in a friend; I look for them to have at least one or ideally two fridge shelves dedicated to condiments, pickles and sauces. Among the top tier of sauces is Indonesian satay sauce, because it is the embodiment of joy and life. In fact, this sauce is also trustworthy and highly respectful of whatever it comes into contact with – perhaps it is, in fact, the perfect friend?

SERVES 4

3 large eggplants (2½ lbs)

canola oil

salt

7 large shallots (8½ oz net), halved and thinly sliced

2 cloves of garlic, crushed

2 long red chillies, finely chopped

2 sticks of lemongrass, outer leaves and top third discarded, the rest finely chopped

¾ x ¾ inch ginger, grated

1 tbsp dark soy sauce

1 tbsp tamarind paste

1½ tsp soft light brown sugar

1 cup crunchy peanut butter

to serve

a handful of fresh mint, cilantro and dill leaves, chopped

a handful of store-bought crispy fried onions

cooked jasmine rice (here)

Preheat the oven to 425°F and line a roasting pan with parchment paper.

Cut each eggplant into an eggplant “octopus”: keeping the green top of the eggplant intact, slice down lengthways through the middle, then turn it 90 degrees and slice down lengthways again, to create four “legs.” Slice down each leg in half, to create eight legs.

Arrange the eggplants head to foot on the tray, drizzle over 2 tablespoons of oil and rub it into all the nooks and crannies. Do the same with a little salt, both inside and outside, then roast for 30 minutes until soft.

While the eggplants are roasting, make the sauce. Heat ¼ cup of oil in a frying pan over a medium to low heat and, once it’s hot, add the shallots, garlic, chillies, lemongrass and ginger, and fry, stirring regularly, for 15 to 20 minutes, until soft and translucent. Stir in the soy sauce, tamarind paste, sugar, ¾ teaspoon of salt and the peanut butter, and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes. Slowly pour in 1⅔ cups of water, mixing it in as you go, to create a thick sauce, then take off the heat.

Once the eggplants have had their roasting time, pour the sauce all over them, making sure some of it goes inside all the cuts, then pop back in the oven for 10 minutes.

To serve, scatter over the herbs and fried onions. Serve with freshly steamed jasmine rice, and a salad if you like.

V PREP 15 mins / COOK 1 hr 10mins


Eggplant, green bean and tofu pad kra pao


Pad kra pao, which translates as “holy basil stir-fry,” is a contender for the most popular and beloved street-food dish of Thailand. I like to call it “kraPOW!” because its starring ingredient, holy basil, has a very vibrant clove-meets-pepper flavor that, tossed through at the last minute, gives whopping great strength, beauty and vitality to this dish.

NOTE Kecap manis is a sweet, spice-infused soy-based sauce and, like holy basil, can be found in East Asian supermarkets. If you can’t find holy basil, substitute it with Thai basil.

SERVES 4

2 large eggplants (1½ lbs), cut into 1-inch cubes

canola oil

salt

10½ oz fine green beans, tailed

10 oz extra-firm tofu, drained

7 large shallots (8½ oz net), finely sliced

¾ × ¾ inch ginger, grated

7 cloves of garlic, crushed

3 bird’s-eye chillies, finely chopped

1½ tbsp rice vinegar

3 tbsp kecap manis

3 tbsp dark soy sauce

1½ tbsp toasted sesame oil

¾ oz fresh holy or Thai basil, leaves picked and torn

1 lime, halved

to serve

optional: 1 bird’s-eye chilli, finely sliced

cooked jasmine rice (here)

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Tip the eggplant onto a large baking sheet (or two) lined with parchment paper – make sure the cubes have plenty of room – drizzle with ¼ cup of oil, scatter over a teaspoon of salt, mix, then roast for 30 minutes. Put the beans on top, stir so that the beans are coated in the oil and roast for another 10 minutes, until all the vegetables are tender.

Pat the tofu dry with paper towel and cut into ½-inch cubes. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wide nonstick frying pan and fry the tofu until crispy and brown all over, then transfer to a plate.

Heat 2 more tablespoons of oil in the same pan, then add the shallots, ginger, garlic and chillies and fry, stirring, for 10 minutes, until the shallots are nice and soft. Add the vinegar, kecap manis, soy sauce and sesame oil, stir everything together and cook for 2 minutes. Take off the heat and stir in the roasted vegetables, fried tofu and half the basil.

Squeeze over the lime, scatter with the remaining basil, add a little extra sliced chilli if you wish and serve with jasmine rice.

V PREP 10 mins / COOK 1 hr


Shandong’s treasures


Thanks to ancient trade routes, many countries have eggplants, potatoes and peppers in their vegetable drawers. In India they’re invariably curried, while in Greece they form a roast called briami. However, in Shandong in Northern China the vegetables are fried until soft, then tossed with heady, sweet Shaoxing wine and soy sauce to create a light, fresh but rich stir-fry called Di San Xian, meaning “the three treasures of the earth.” Shandong wins this round.

NOTE This is a quick recipe, so make the rice first if you’re eating it alongside.

SERVES 4

1½ tbsp cornstarch

canola oil

2 large waxy potatoes (1 lb), peeled and cut into wedges 1 inch at the widest point

2 eggplants (1 lb), cut into 1½- × ¾-inch lozenges

2 green bell peppers (12 oz), cut into irregular 1- × 1½-inch pieces

4 cloves of garlic, finely sliced

1 tsp salt

2 tbsp light soy sauce

2 tbsp Shaoxing wine

1 tsp ground black pepper

cooked jasmine rice (here), to serve

In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with 7 tablespoons of water and set aside. Keep a very large plate nearby to transfer the cooked vegetables onto.

In a large nonstick pan for which you have a lid, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over a medium heat and, when hot, add the potatoes. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, tossing occasionally, until brown and tender (they shouldn’t resist a knife when prodded). Using a slotted spoon, remove the potatoes and put them on the prepared plate.

Add another tablespoon of oil to the pan, then add the eggplants. Cook for 3 minutes on each side until brown, then put the lid on for a couple of minutes. Remove the lid and check the eggplants: they should be very soft. Tip the eggplants onto the same plate as the potatoes, then add another tablespoon of oil to the pan and, when hot, add the peppers.

Let them blister in the hot oil for about 4 minutes, until they have softened a little, then add 1 final tablespoon of oil and the sliced garlic. Stir-fry for a minute, then put the cooked vegetables back into the pan and add the salt, soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, black pepper and the cornstarch mix. Stir to coat the vegetables, adding more water if need be: you want the sauce to coat all the vegetables. Toss and simmer for a couple of minutes, then take off the heat. Serve with jasmine rice.

V PREP 10 mins / COOK 25 mins


Nam jim eggplant salad with wild rice


Up and down the length and breadth of Thailand’s tables, you’ll find dipping sauces of various kinds waiting patiently to add fire and life to your meal. Nam jim is a particular favorite of mine, and, although there are many variations, it is always fabulously punchy when made with chillies, sugar, garlic, lime and a salty element (such as fish sauce or soy). Here, I’ve doused some roasted eggplants in the sauce, then tossed them with wild rice and fresh herbs to add some fire and life to your table.

NOTE You can buy pre-mixed basmati and wild rice from larger supermarkets. You’ll need a pestle and mortar to make the nam jim dressing.

SERVES 4

eggplants

4 medium eggplants (2½ lbs)

canola oil

1½ cups basmati and wild rice

salt

nam jim dressing

1 oz fresh cilantro, leaves picked, stems finely sliced

3 cloves of garlic, peeled

3 bird’s-eye chillies, chopped

1 tbsp dark brown sugar

2 tbsp light soy sauce

5 tbsp lime juice, from 2–3 limes

3 tbsp orange juice, from 1 orange

¾ oz fresh Thai basil, leaves shredded

¾ oz fresh mint, leaves shredded

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the eggplant into long wedges, ¾ inch at the widest part, put into a large bowl, pour over ¼ cup of oil and toss to coat. Arrange the eggplants in a single layer across two baking sheets (keep the bowl for later) and bake for 25 minutes, turning halfway through.

While the eggplants are roasting, cook the rice. Put the rice in a sieve and rinse really well until the water runs clear. Tip into a saucepan (for which you have a tight-fitting lid), cover with 1¾ cups of cold water and ½ teaspoon of salt, put the lid on and bring to a boil. As soon as the water boils, turn the heat down to a whisper and cook for 20 minutes. After this time, turn the heat off but don’t lift the lid. Allow the rice to rest while you make the dressing.

To make the dressing, put the cilantro stems, garlic, chillies and ¾ teaspoon of salt into a mortar and bash until smooth. Tip into the large bowl from earlier, and add the sugar, soy sauce, and lime and orange juices. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then add the cooked eggplants, submerge in the liquid and set aside for a few minutes.

To make up the salad, put the rice into a serving bowl, and air-lift the eggplants into the rice, leaving as much of the dressing behind as possible. Add the basil, mint and cilantro leaves to the dressing bowl, gently toss to mix, then drizzle over the top of the eggplants.

V PREP 15 mins / COOK 35 mins


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